Risotto “comme la bouillabaisse”

Risotto was one of the very first dishes my mom taught me to cook. In the 35 years since, I’ve always loved how you can invent a risotto for every taste, every location and every occasion.

Here’s my creation inspired by the most Mediterranean of Mediterranean dishes – the bouillabaisse [BOO-ya-bess; bu.ja.bɛːs] originating from Marseille in southern France.

Ingredients

  • 1 onion or 2 shallots
  • 2 carrots
  • 1 small celery root or 2 branches of celery, or 1/2 : 1 mixed
  • 1 small fennel bulb
    all diced for mirepoix (approximately 3-4 mm)
  • 3 cloves of garlic, halved and cut into very thin slices
  • 1 small leek, cut into julienne (small strips)
  • 3 tomatoes, emptied and diced
  • 3 sprigs flat-leafed parsley
  • 3 sprigs thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 piece of orange peel (around 5 x 2 cm)
  • 300 g Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone rice
  • 2 dl dry white whine
  • 7 dl vegetable stock
  • 5 dl fish or seafood stock
  • 500 g fresh salmon fillet or any other saltwater fish suitable for poaching (ask your fishmonger)
  • 12 scallops (meat only)
  • 12 shrimps (guts removed)
  • olive oil
  • vegetable or peanut oil
  • salt, pepper

Method

  • Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large pot.
  • Add mirepoix vegetables and garlic. Braise lightly for 5 minutes.
  • Add leak and rice, braise for another 5 minutes.
  • Add white wine, saffron, bay leaf and orange peel.
  • Increase heat and reduce liquid almost completely.
  • Add 5 dl of the vegetable stock, all fish/seafood stock and herb sprigs. Bring to a simmer. Don’t stir!
  • Place fish on a skimmer (in portions if needed) and poach for 5-10 minutes. Ask your fishmonger for the correct time for the fish you’re buying. For salmon, 5 minutes work well. Set aside.
  • Once the fish removed, continue cooking the risotto until “al dente”. Stir from time to time. Total cooking time from when you added the rice will be around 30 minutes depending on type of rice. If the risotto thickens too much, gradually add some of the leftover vegetable stock.
  • In the meantime, sauté the scallops and shrimps over medium heat in a mixture of olive and other oil.
  • A few minutes before the risotto is finished, remove the herb sprigs, bay leaf and orange peel.
  • Break the poached fish into bite-sized chunks. Carefully mix into the risotto and let heat.
  • Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
  • Serve risotto in pre-heated deep plates, with seafood arranged on top and a thyme sprig as garnish.

Cappuccino on the Foredeck: Cuchaule (Swiss Sweet Saffron Bread)

Cuchale - Swiss Saffron Sweetbread

This post marks two firsts: It introduces the Galley category where I publish my favorite recipes. The recipes that are particulary suitable for these serene moments when you’re sitting outside at sunrise with a freshly brewed cup of coffee in your hand will become part of the “Cappuccino on the Foredeck” series.

Cuchaule [cue-shoal] is not just a bread to me, but a veritable soul food. My memories of it go back to when my grandma used it to bring it to my bed on Sunday morning when I was at her house – with no coffee yet then, but in large chunks covered in butter and jam.

The recipe originates from my home canton (that’s what the Swiss call their states) of Fribourg and is a Sunday classic there. It takes some time to prepare, but believe me, you’ll be fully rewarded upon your first bite.The recipe is transcribed from [German] Aus Schweizer Küchen (From Swiss Kitchens), a standard for Swiss cuisine by culinary legend Marianne Kaltenbach.

Ingredients

  • 1 kg white flour
  • 40 g fresh yeast (or 13 grams of dried yeast)
  • 150 g sugar
  • 2.5 dl milk
  • 2.5 dl water
  • 80 g butter
  • 1 dl cream
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 whole egg
  • 250 mg powdered saffron
  • 1 eggyolk

Method

  • Sieve the flour into a large, pre-warmed bowl. Create a well in the middle.
  • Mix sugar and yeast until liquid.
  • Mix 2 tbsp of milk and 1 tbsp of flour to a paste.
  • Pour liquid and paste into the well and stir carefully (not including any additional flour).
  • Leave to rest for 20 minutes in a warm place.
  • Heat milk and water. Remove from heat.
  • Melt butter in liquid.
  • Add cream.
  • Mix into bowl in portions until integrated.
  • Mix salt, egg and saffron.
  • Add to dough and knead until no longer sticky.
  • Leave to rise until volume doubles (approximately 1.5 hours).
  • Separate into two or three loaves.
  • With a sharp knife, carve a coarse grid into the top of each of the loaves.
  • Leave to rest in a cool place for 10 minutes.
  • Glaze loaves in whisked egg yolk.
  • Bake for 35-40 minutes (depending on size) at 190° Celsius (375° Fahrenheit)