The Cap San Diego [German], built in 1961 and in service on the South America passage until the eighties, is the largest museum freighter in the world that has kept some seaworthiness. Now docked at the Überseebrücke (“Overseas Quai”) in the port of Hamburg most of the time, she’s being run as a museum and hotel after being saved from the scrapyard by the city. A group of volunteers, many of them former crew members, make this possible.
A few times a year, the Cap San Diego leaves her dock, albeit not too far out: Her seaworthiness certificates limit her to the larger Elbe estuary. Longer passages are a thing of the past. There are ideas to have Cap San Diego go on the South America passage again for one last time.
This adventure would come at a hefty price. Gesa Rädeker, Cap San Diego’s Operations & Hospitality Manager, estimates the cost of increasing the freighter’s seaworthiness to acceptable levels, maritime logistics and operations at around 2 million Euros.
It doesn’t take a trip across the Atlantic ocean though to experience Cap San Diego to the fullest. I was lucky enough to spend a day at sea and a night at dock aboard her in July 2019 The early morning ride from Hamburg’s bus terminal to the port of Cuxhaven surely isn’t the most exciting part of the journey, but seeing the Cap San Diego from afar, all geared up for the passage and waiting for her 350 guests is the perfect reward at the start of a memorable day.
Navigating up the river Elbe for around 50 nautical miles (90 kilometers) to Hamburg takes seven hours or so, including a tour of the commercial port. For most of the time, the scenery is less attractive than the many things there are to discover on the Cap San Diego. In fact, most areas are accessible during the passage, including the bridge and the engine room. Combine the impressions with a bit of imagination, close your eyes maybe, and find yourself en route to South America. There are so many details to discover!
Once arrived at her home base, docking the Cap San Diego (video) is an exercise that takes almost an hour. Once finished, the passengers are leaving. All passengers? No. Up to a dozen lucky guests can stay onboard to spend the night in one of the cabins formerly used for Cap San Diego’s officers and the occasional tourist.
This is an experience absolutely not to be missed. The lounge and bar are unfortunately closed for the evening, but other than that, overnight guests can wander around as they wish, save for some areas closed off for security reasons. The cabins are simple, comfortable and very, very quiet, with nobody aboard than the guests and a night clerk.
Unlike in former times, dinner is not being served aboard. But you don’t have to veer off too far. Tasquinha Galego, within less five minutes of the ship, serves excellent Portuguese food in an authentic atmosphere that might remind you of a stopover on one of the original Cap San Diego passages.
The next morning, a hearty German breakfast is being served in the onboard café. Enough to give you lots of energy for discovering Hamburg. Maybe starting with the Elbphilharmonie, a close neighbor to the Cap San Diego?
